Category Archives: travel

Rock Pools

Nothing can get the heart pounding and the blood racing through one’s veins like a sudden submersion into a pool of melted mountain runoff.  It is also, incidentally, the best known hangover cure for those with stout hearts.  There are reasons societies like the Polar Bear Club exist.

Every year they had a strict tradition of piling into the car and heading out west at the end of September to celebrate Gary’s birthday.  This tradition also included a dramatic over imbibing of Guinness and Jameson the night before.  Needless to say, the much less desired, but also traditional, headache and hangover were part of the package deal. The morning after the night before would begin in the mid to late afternoon, as soon as the first one of the crew had reemerged from their alcohol induced comas and started the rabble rousing. 

Foggy movements commenced sluggishly after the first set of sleep crusted eyes had cracked open, cursed the light, and promptly slammed shut again. A deliberate attempt to block the passage of time and deny the existence of morning lacking a successful conclusion prompted the eyes’ possessor to sigh in resignation and  assess the self inflicted damage while rolling herself over onto her side in preparation for the big move – sitting up. The initiation of such a move must be undertaken with severe caution as the incorrect pacing and progression could inevitably set her head crashing with an intensity to rival an industrial construction site. Once having achieved a lateral prone position it was possible to determine if verticality would be on the present menu. 

Wary of the repercussions, she sat up cautiously and looked around the dark living room, taking a moment to gather her thoughts are recollect exactly why the surroundings were so completely unfamiliar. Memory slowly emerged, as a picture tuning in on an unstable channel and she swallowed twice to determine just how dehydrated she was.  Owen’s house, out west. It was the September holiday and all six of them had traveled out to the small town in which Owen’s family had a cottage in order to celebrate. The paucity of beds had led to a heated World Series of rock-paper-scissors to determine who slept in comfort and who kipped on the floor. Rock-paper-scissors had never been her sport. 

Feeling the approach of a cough, Evelyn tensed with trepidation. No, no, no. Please no. *COUGH* A paroxysm of pain shot through her shattered skull like bolts of lightening radiating from the center in every direction. “Fuck,” she quietly cursed, squeezing her eyes shut and fighting the urge to lie back down and surrender to the eruption; a greasy breakfast and a cup, or ten, of tea she knew were the only solution to her present predicament.

Evelyn stood slowly, first making her way to her knees, then to the back of the couch to find support on her way to a fully upright position. Pausing briefly before moving on, she made her way into the cottage’s tiny kitchen and stood in the doorway inspecting the battleground and formulating a strategy. Tea was her priority but a mug would have to be washed before that would be a possibility. There were pans, she assumed, but where was another dilemma entirely and the thought of rummaging through the cabinets and providing a metallic clanging to accompany the persistent throb in her head was not an appealing option. Her eyes landed on the kettle sitting atop the counter and she made her way there.  Baby steps.

Kettle filled and switched on, Evelyn carefully washed the mug she found sitting in the sink and located both a box of Barry’s and the fresh carton of milk she had purchased the day before. Sitting on the fridge shelf next to the milk was the also newly acquired carton of eggs and packet of sausage. Predictably, the fry pan was under the cabinet. Unpredictably it was easily accessible and required no grand adventure to locate and set on the range. “Phase two complete.” 

Within minutes the smell of frying sausage and rashers permeated the small kitchen creating a sense of comfort deep within Evelyn, as did the warm milky tea sliding down her throat. Fortification

The sounds and smells emanating from the kitchen drew the attention and groggy praise of the other inhabitants of the cottage as they stumbled about moving through their own painful morning-after rituals. At first only grunts were exchanged, but by the time breakfast was half consumed conversation had begun to flow and the plans for the afternoon were being deliberated in broad brushstrokes. The washing up would be left until they had returned. “Priorities, people.”

“The real question is, how many cars do we take.” Jane got directly to the point, probably because one of the cars in question was hers. 

“Two would be far more comfortable than one,” Gary opined.

“Truth,” Evelyn and Owen chimed.

“Yeah, but there’s no way my car will make it. Paved roads only. That’s all it can candle.”

“I hear ya, but do you really want to be smashed in the back of mine with three other people? I mean, I don’t care. I’ll be in the driver seat. Plenty of space for me.” 

Always the conciliator,  Owen proposed, “What about two in the front seat?” When his suggestion was greeted with audible silence, undeterred, he persevered. “Sarah and Jane are small, no? Why don’t you lot sit up front and Evelyn, Danny, and me can fit in back.” Crickets. “It makes the most sense…” Owen trailed off and concentrated on using the last bit of his sausage to mop up the egg yolk that remained on his plate.  

Piled into the back of the car, windows wide open for the curative fresh air, they left the village and headed out onto dirt track country roads. Stone walls zipped past the car – only one – windows on both sides, unbroken as far as the eye could see but rimmed on the top by a seemingly endless expanse of green rolling hills. The road, barely wide enough for one car, let alone two, was actually a two lane local “highway” and as a result Gary would have to pull to the side, nearly scraping the left flank of the car on the low wall to make room for the passing vehicle coming from the opposite direction, Sarah and Jane, tucked snugly into the shotgun seat,  visibly shying away from the approaching impenetrable barrier. Owen gazed thoughtfully out the window as Evelyn dozed, her head resting on his shoulder, and Danny and Gary sang full throatedly along to the Stone Roses blaring on the car stereo. 

As the hour wore on the landscape rose and the road became bumpier eliciting profanity from the six sufferers in packed into the small car. Making one last turn off the road, the car slowed to a stop in front of a gated path. Danny jumped out of the car to investigate the status of the lock. After fiddling with the latch for a moment or two, he shrugged and returned to the open rear window and the expectant face of Evelyn. 

“No go. We’ll have to hop it.”

“Excellent.  Then let’s go!” Evelyn cracked in a brave, if slightly fabricated, tone as she crawled clumsily out of the back of the car and made her way to the rear, thumping her fist on the trunk hood which obligingly popped open. Sarah, Jane, and Owen came around the back of the car to help her drag out the supplies. Owen, overseeing the cooler “… for safe keeping”, snapped back the lid and extricated six cans from the reserve, taking one for himself and passing out the other five to the group. In unison the six friends popped the tops of their hair-of-the-dog and lifted the cans into the air, “Slanté!” A cacophony of gulps, sighs, buuuurps, and aaaahhhhhhs! followed.

Squinting into the dull light of the grey Irish afternoon, Evelyn surveyed the landscape, the craggy hills and damp grasses dotted with slate colored slabs and boulders. She felt a chill run down her spine and a thrill pass up it. While Owen grabbed six more cans from the seemingly bottomless stash in the car’s trunk, everyone else climbed the low stone wall and started the hike up to the ultimate destination, carrying the necessities of the afternoon: bags of crisps, towels, and a blanket for the ground should they find a spot dry enough to deploy it. Upward they hiked, the cool air making Evelyn’s ears tingle and sting before settling into a dull numbness. The wind stung her eyes and she squinted against the assault wondering, not for the first time, what degree of insanity was required for this venture. Hugging her towel close to her chest, Evelyn bent forward into the wind and looked down at her boots as they made their way up to the destination – the rock pool.

Destination acquired, even Gary and Danny, the most stout hearted of the crew, hesitated, looking down into the black depths of the water. The pool was unfathomably deep, the water black in a whole no more than ten feet across and fed by the mountain runoff. Over one side of the rock pool stood a large, flat rock protrusion which could, would, and had, function as a diving board into the abyss. Busying themselves with a variety of tasks, not strictly necessary but solid delaying tactics, each member of the crew turned inward to prepare him or herself for the moments to come – testing the wind; setting the towels away from the possible splash radius and debating the accuracy of the estimated measurements; warily eyeing the rock structure from which they would jump; assessing and commenting on whether the sun, “that smarmy bastard”, would make an appearance; rigging a rope line from which to suspend the beers that still wanted cooling into the water.

Stripping down to one’s skivvies in the late fall mountain air is a test of will power, but nothing like the steel nerves it takes to fling oneself off of rocks, easily five meters in the air, into the icy cold and watery abyss waiting below.  

Clad only in her bra and panties, clothing stashed with her towel safely away to provide a modicum of warmth after the ritual was complete, Evelyn looked down into the pool where Owen still paddled and around the perimeter where Jane, Danny, and Gary, slightly blue in appearance to her eyes, laughed dripping with water. Sarah had opted out – she always did – and lay on the grass on the outstretched blanket dozing. “Come on, Evie,” Owen beckoned from the pool. He was laughing at her hesitation. She knew it. The degree to which she cared was, however, up for debate. “It isn’t going to get warmer if you wait longer, ya know,” Owen taunted. Evelyn stuck her tongue out at him.

It was impossible to back out now. There she stood, on the precipice of the moment and it had to be taken. Each year she wondered to herself why she opted to continue with this ritual, why she allowed her better judgement to be swept aside by the insanity of the moment. Was it just so that she could say she had done it? Was it a cult-like ritual guaranteeing her in her superstitious mind another year of solid friendships with some of the best people she had met in her short lifetime? She stood, looking down while knowing she should not, closed her eyes, and whispered a near silent “fuck it” before tossing caution to the wind and leaping off the slab into the frigid water.

As she plummeted below the surface she experienced – or perhaps only thought she experienced, she couldn’t be sure – the queer sensation of her heart stopping momentarily in her chest. Eyes open she looked up at the circle of dim light that illuminated the grey afternoon in the world above. Silence. Peaceful silence and beauty. This was why she did it. Under water for no more than the span of a few seconds, eternity extended outward from this moment in time. Endless. She no longer felt the chill of the water as it enveloped her entirely. She no longer felt the after effects of the night before. She no longer suffer doubts. Her thoughts were as clear as Waterford crystal and she floated back to the pool. 

Resurfacing, she was reborn.

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Outward Bound

Rocky, Nancy & Dan

Much to my chagrin, I found myself deposited on my own isolated island in the middle of the Everglades, a muggy, mosquito infested little slice of nature. Resigned to spending a night alone in this dreamland – a nightmare of my school’s creation – I spread my mini-tarp half way between the the shore and the line of mangroves behind me, stuffed my sleeping bag inside the mosquito netting, and settled the bundle on the waterproof haven I hoped I had created – Oh, please, don’t let it rain! – before I brought myself down to the water’s edge, journal in hand, fighting the urge to make the worst of my predicament. Surly teen that I was, I rebelled against the very notion that I had be forced to spend a week in a swamp, learning “to use cooperation to solve group problems” and “sensitivity and respect for others.” I was freaking sensitive enough on my own without some idiotic organization telling me how to behave!

I perched on that shore prepared for my night of seclusion fielding mixed emotions: after three days trapped in canoes with classmates, I reveled in the silence as I watched the sun set over the marshy terrain, but as dusk encroached so did my desire to be indoors away from the vampiric insectoid-companions beleaguering my solitude. My skin had grown three inches thicker with layer upon layer of sunscreen, sand, sweat, and repellant, so under the netting I went, daily journal requirement fulfilled with a flourish as I scribbled, “gorgeous sunset, but this sucks” in the middle of the damp pages of my bedraggled composition book.

The sun sets early in the winter months. My night would be never-ending.

As I lay in my netted bower, fingertips raised above my head in the deepening darkness to prevent the aggregating antagonists from puncturing the barricade I had erected around my tender, if somewhat begrimed, skin I thought, yes, this is what hell feels like. I could see miniature mosquito morphology landing on the net, multitudes. Waiting. Waiting for me to sleep and relax my defensive front. Then they would strike. Piercing my protective layer, sucking my blood in spite of the net.

Contemplating this fresh hell, I turned my head aside to find I was not alone. A small, masked bandit of the rodent variety squatted not four feet from my face, rubbing his tiny hands together, observing me observe him. Cute, I thought. I had no food. I had nothing he could want. I knew it and he knew it, but I was an oddity yet undiscovered in his terrain.

“S’up?” Why not? There was no one else to hear me talking to him. Seemingly startled by my greeting, he scampered off into the bracken behind me as I returned to my meditation on the delights of swamp life.

A faint rustling sound emanated from the void and I craned my neck to witness the approach of my recent acquaintance accompanied by his (or, to be fair, possibly her) much larger companion. Both stood in the spot he alone had formerly occupied, rubbing their tiny hands together, observing me observe them.

“Brought a friend this time? I still have nothing for you.” They blinked. In unison. “I’m really not much of an exhibitionist, folks…” More blinking.

Fingertips still holding the ‘skeeter screen aloft, I closed my eyes and hoped for sleep. Day break. The break of day. If I didn’t break first.

Eyes open again and a third had joined the crew. It’s a freaking hoedown, I glumly thought to myself. “I’ll call you Nancy, and you Danny Boy, and you,” I said pointing at the largest one, “you’re Rocky.” Apparently offended by my spontaneous musical outburst following the naming ceremony, my three voyeurs turned tail and returned to the cover of the undergrowth obscured by the night’s blackness.

Exhaustion overtook me and sweet sleep swept me into a dreamless daze.

Time is difficult to measure in an unfamiliar environment. How long had I been sleeping? I wasn’t really sure, but I woke with a start to the startling sound of screeching. Blood curdling screams. Disoriented and suppressing a rising panic, I lay still, motionless, in the dark. Behind me. The noises came from the opaque murkiness behind me. As I listened to the night noises I realized they originated from where the raccoons had retired. Rocky and his gang were going at it. Frisky raccoon festivities in full swing, the shrieks, howls, yowls, and squeals perforated the peace of the place.

Hands over my ears to block the sounds for what felt like years, my frustration mounted. Stuck in the humid heat, the odor emanating from my unwashed body stinging my eyes, exhausted beyond memorable recognition, I wanted to shout. I wanted to scream. I wanted to sob.

Instead I laughed.

As the sun brightened the sky to a dim grey and the clouds became visible in the pale light, the noises dissipated. The raccoon party disbanded, presumably each to his own den and I emerged from my cocoon, wearied and worn but amused. I opened my grubby but mandated memoir of the disastrous affair, turned to the next open page and scribbled, “beautiful morning, but this sucks.”

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Castelvecchio

Castelvecchio_full_view_verona

Silent and cross legged she sat, the sun warmed stone feeling good on her bare legs.  Sound and sight obscured the tangible facts of her reality. Purple tinted mountains spotted with white cottages and houses jutted out of the distant grounds, pushing their way skywards. Brilliant, translucent, forrest-covered hills with ancient ruins stood on the opposite shore. And the river: the river churned and burbled; raged and wept; signed and sang as it rushed on its enduring path creating alternate spots of white capped rapids and glass smooth pools.

“My God,” she breathed. Feeling faint and a little unsure, Chadia stared in awe at her surroundings. Over and over her eyes returned to the river, watching the straw-like grass sway and dance in the flowing water. She knew that once outside the castle walls she would be thrown face first into the cold rough wall of reality, but here… here she was on another plane.

The grass, the river, the castle wall, all of these things had stood since a moment in time too far distant for her to comprehend. The mountains and trees, the ruins, none of these things had changed; permanent structures, ancient structures full of history and beauty surrounded by a cramped, boisterous, busy modern society. The contrast astounded her. It rendered her speechless, even thoughtless. Only emotion pumped through her ever absorbing body.

Reason had no place in her fascination of aesthetics.

From somewhere in the distance she heard bird-like squawking. Course and erratic, it had no home in her thoughts of serenity. She shook her head slightly to clear the grating noise from her ears.

“I wonder how it would haven been, in that time long ago, when this castle was first built.”  Closing her eyes to the blemishes of modern life, Chadia pictured the river, mostly unchanged, flowing placidly along its course, not impeded by the annoyances of garbage and waste. The distant purple crests stood nude in the background; no houses, no roads, no industry.  The ruins, well, the ruins would have always been there; since a time before time; a home for the ancient rites and entertainments, still, in this dark medieval hour, standing empty and unused.

The dream came to her in full force now as she watched her young chevalier, sitting erect on his horse, gallop over the bridge, through the gates, coming to a stop below where she sat. She smiled down upon him as he waved at her the white scarf she had given him for luck in jousting competitions. In a hurried flash he spurred his horse forward through the gates to the inner sanctum of the castle.

“My dream world, my castle.” Chadia looked down and saw the massive forms of the swans floating, hovering  in the straw-like grass of the river.  “Each morning I will go to feed them the moment I awake.”

Chadia shifted her weight on the sun warmed smooth marble feeling the deeper cold of the stone, the center core, a virgin to the sun’s heat. Gathering her skirts in her hands she rose to her knees and peered through the slits in the inner defensive wall.  Such a tiny crack.

One eye pressed to the opening she saw directly across from her the guards of the estate dressed in tunics of studded leather.  A young guard noticed the spy and, having seen her flirtatious exchange with the horsed rider, smiled at her, the princess of the castle.

“Days,months, years, I could sit on this wall and watch my world, our world, fall.” The words dreamily drifted off her lips, floating their way through the wall to the guard.

Growing tired all too soon of her obedient observer Chadia returned her attention to the country once more, the afternoon sun fading all around her, the purple peaks disappearing in the distance as night consumed them.

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Filed under fiction, Italy, memory, travel

Snapshot on a Mountain

devilsladder

Tip of my right boot jammed in the crack between two large boulders, left foot dangling free beneath me, arms stretched above my head grasping at rocks much less secure than the one on which I was standing, I watched the mountain goats briskly bounce up the steep rocky slope with a dropped jaw and not a little awe. 

They made it look so damned easy.

Inspired and simultaneously chastised I reconsidered, perhaps a bit too late, my current undertaking: climbing Carantouhill, the highest mountain peak in Ireland.

The day had been fine and bright when it had begun, filling me with an optimism that could not be quenched, or so I had thought, until I reached The Devil’s Ladder and found myself at an impasse.  Clinging to the rock and looking around at the vista which unfolded beneath me and the formidable clouds closing in above me, I felt my importance in the world shrink and my inner admonitions began.

What was I thinking?  How could I have come out this unprepared?  Why couldn’t those damned goats show me the easy way up?

As I held on to the rock face I pondered surrendering, admitting defeat and returning the way I had come, a more humble and submissive person. I stretched the toes of my suspended left leg, reaching for purchase on the rocks beneath me when I spotted those that would unknowingly become my inspiration and temporary companions, a group of nine mountaineers having their own way with the mountain.

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Filed under adventure, Ireland, memory, travel